The difference PURE vanilla makes

Which bean has over 250 flavor components, takes 15 months to cure and was cultivated first in the 16th century in Veracruz, Mexico?


Coffee? No. Cocoa? No. Soy? Wrong again. VANILLA.

This week we had the distinct pleasure of talking with Dan Berlin of Rodelle Vanilla about that deceptively simple and ubiquitous baking ingredient we all grew up with, consciously or not –Vanilla. We wanted to know when vanilla was not vanilla, how to tell pure vanilla from imitation vanilla and what was going on with (and therefore into) the bottle. We learned a little about how to extract vanilla at home and a lot about what we need to know as consumers. For example, we were not aware that some imitation vanillas contain ethylvanillin, a petroleum product. They may smell like vanilla, but do not taste the same as pure vanilla extract. Nor were we aware that some of the cheaper forms of vanilla from Mexico contain no vanilla beans at all, using tonka beans (which by the way are illegal in the US), a legume which contains coumarin, a blood thinner which when consumed in large doses can be highly toxic. True traditional Mexican vanilla by the way, is much more extraordinary and expensive, with a wonderful light flavor.

So how can we tell a high quality vanilla? Here are some things we learned from Dan:

1. Pure vanilla extract contains three things – vanilla beans, alcohol and water. If you see caramel color, for example, on the label, this is a clear indicator that you are not looking at pure extract.

2. Vanilla extract can be sweetened either with sugar or corn syrup. Sugar is preferable as it has a cleaner flavor than corn syrup. It doesn’t really make any difference whether it is cane or beet sugar that is used, they have the same effect. You can try this taste test at home = have some sugar, then have some syrup – then write and tell us what you think! It’s a different kind of sweetness (we apologize for any pending toothache!):).

3. To be called vanilla extract, the FDA requires the following –35% alcohol and 13.35 oz of vanilla beans per gallon of alcohol and water.  This is almost a pound of vanilla beans per gallon! These measurements can make “do-it-yourself” vanilla extract difficult to make at home (in terms of strength). Difficult, but not impossible, as a future blog will share with you!

4. If you are using vanilla beans, most of the flavor comes from their oils which give the bean that shiny surface and which are also in the seeds in the center of the bean, so the best way to use a vanilla bean is to slice it length ways, scoop the seeds and use the paste in the middle. If you want to use the whole bean, use it to infuse whatever it is going to go into rather than actually eating the bean (they’re a little like edamame, not so great to chew on the husk!)

5. High quality vanilla beans and extracts can last a long time. As long as the beans are cured and warehoused correctly, they can last up to two years. A properly sealed vanilla bean should last over 2 years depending on moisture content. Once the alcohol is in the extract, it is also very stable (for years) as long as the bottle is closed. So keep that lid on it! If extract is left sitting on the shelf for several months, it’s a good idea to shake the bottle because after time, the sediment falls to the bottom of the bottle and the alcohol is on top. So if you don’t shake it before opening it if it has been left for awhile, all you will smell is alcohol.

So why do we put vanilla in everything? Because of its complexity and its ability to round out other flavors like the green notes of fruit and the harsh notes we find in flavored liquor such as spiced rum! That is also why it is important to seek out pure vanilla extract to gain access to those 250 flavor components which make everything they touch richer, more mellow and sweeter. So the next time you are looking for vanilla, don’t be fooled by the price — pick up the bottle and look at what’s on the label. Look at what is sweetening the vanilla. Sugar is good here! Remember that you don’t need coloring — vanilla beans have a wonderful lustrous dark chocolate color which transfers to the extract. Finally, like most things, if it is cheap, chances are it is not pure; and purity, in the case of vanilla, makes all the difference!

What kinds of vanilla (beans, extract, sugar etc) have you used and why? My French mother-in-law makes a creme anglaise (custard) to die for using vanilla sugars she brings over with her from France. I panic if I go to bake something or make a smoothie and there’s no vanilla in the house! We would love to hear about your life with this pure bean!

With thanks to readontheroadkern.justintauntingpanda and mr.smashy for their wonderful images!

Kirsti

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  • What a great post! I was just about to post a recipe on my blog for homemade vanilla so this article was extremely informative! Thanks!
  • kblucy
    Great – so have you made homemade vanilla before? What process did you use? How did it turn out? I have never done it but my friend is about to try and will post her results for us to see! Great to hear from you Carrie (and your chive biscuit recipe looks like something to try as well)!
  • I bought several vanilla beans, put them in a glass jar and filled it with vodka (organic, since non-organic is made with 40% ethanol) and let it sit for about a month. It is really wonderful vanilla! Do you mind if I use some of the facts I read on your site, as long as I link you?
  • Hi Carrie - I work for Rodelle and thought I'd jump in on this conversation. You're more than welcome to use some of the facts on our site and link to us.

    Also, a few things about making your own extract... to be classified as extract and not just vanilla infused alcohol, you'll need 18-20 beans beans per 750 ml of alcohol (750 ml is a typical bottle size of alcohol).

    Also, for the best flavor, we advise you to cut up the beans before adding them to the alcohol. If you're using whole beans, then we advise letting it sit for at least 2 months.

    By the way - I'm going to make your butterball chive biscuits for this Thanksgiving. They look delicious!
  • Hi Chelsea, Thanks for the info! My post will be up soon and I'll be sure to link you! Carrie
  • Rebecca
    Hello everyone at Rodelle!

    I spent 7 years living in Sri Lanka, where a lot of vanilla is grown locally. The extract sold in the stores I quickly realized was WAY more powerful and yummy than the vanilla I'd been using back in Canada - my first introduction to the difference between imitation and pure vanilla!

    I've visited the "spice gardens" where they grow vanilla, and seen the long flutes that the workers have to hand-pollinate. The vanilla beans were readily available to buy in the vegetable market.

    Now vanilla isn't just something I find in a bottle in the baking section at the store... its a living, breathing spice that can have a huge "WOW" factor if you know where to get the right stuff!

    Thanks for spreading the news, Rodelle! :-)
  • kblucy
    Wow Rebecca = thanks for your comment! So tell us some more about the markets – did you buy the vanilla beans there ready dried or did you dry them yourself? What kinds of vanilla inclusive recipes are some of your favorites from Sri Lanka?
  • Rebecca
    Hi kblucy....

    Yes, the vanilla beans at the market were already dried. I bought a couple once with the intention of making my own vanilla, but didn't get anywhere with it! I still regret that...

    Sri Lankans are big fans of a special type of tapioca pudding which includes cloves and cashew nuts, and more than a little vanilla! A traditional dessert called Wattalapan made with eggs, jaggery (kind of like maple sugar) I believe contains quite a bit of vanilla too... and of course, they are keen on all the same cakes we love here!
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