Won Over by French Macaroons
Wednesday, March 24th, 2010
Have you ever found yourself not paying attention to a food trend or other popular cooking craze because something about it just reminded you of something else that you’d just as soon pretend didn’t exist? That’s how it was with me and every single macaroon post I’ve seen in the last six months.
When I just hear the word macaroon, I can feel my tongue trying to oust tough, chewy bits of shredded coconut from my teeth as an intense sugar high begins coursing through my veins. I’ve never liked macaroons. I’ve never liked shredded coconut. Maybe I’ve never liked shredded coconut because of macaroons. That seems possible because I recently began adding unsweetened coconut flakes to my oatmeal. Go figure.
Here’s the thing. All the macaroon posts I’ve seen lately show pictures of pretty pastel colored hamburger-like sandwich cookies. I’ve routinely rejected reading these posts because I automatically think: over-the-top-sugary-coconut-ick. I also find the color of these mini confections to be off-putting in the same way that pink, green and yellow marshmallow Easter treats shaped like bunnies, eggs and chicks inspire a gag reflex.
But once NPR got on board with the macaroon, I felt a higher responsibility to all my fans (hi, Mom and Dad), to pause for a wee sec and acknowledge that these little pink and yellow hamburgers cookies are a different variety of macaroon all together. Because they are. Really.
First, I was surprised to learn macaroons are an almond meringue cookie hailing from France (although they most likely traveled to France by way of Italian monks). Almonds! Meringue!
Second, I did not know that cooking macaroons inspired deep trepidation in many a baker. As I quickly learned while reading David Lebovitz’s online macaroon thesis, the baking of macaroons is not a walk in the park.
Third, as with all things French, there are as many opinions about the proper way to make macaroons as there are comments on a Pioneer Woman blog post.
Hmm. What could a girl do but test her kitchen mettle and commit to making a batch of macaroons? I mean, I owe it to the French, really, to admit my naivety and honor a dessert tradition that has been embraced by Starbucks and every other fancy food baker in the country. After reviewing many a macaroon recipe, I chose to follow the one Mr. Lebovitz shared for French Chocolate Macaroons because of its relative simplicity (and because his macaroons weren’t pink). Still, I had to trek down to Michaels to buy a piping bag and tip and then pop next door to Vitamin Cottage where happily I found almond meal. The next morning, I woke early and got to work.
As indicated above, points of contention abound when it comes to how one makes macaroons, starting with whether or not you should keep your egg whites at room temperature or in the refrigerator, for one, two, or three days prior to the big day. I left my eggs out on the counter for almost 24 hours. I took a departure from all recipe instructions by using a hand-held rotary beater for beating my eggs into stiff peaks. This instrument has become my favorite tool for working with eggs. Using the beater is fast and strangely satisfying.

Other technique arguments involve how long you should mix the meringue with the almond meal and whether or not (and for how long) you should leave the piped macaroon batter out to dry before baking. The point of all this fuss is that you want to produce the right conditions for the development of the little rim that appears at the base of the macaroon as its baking. This rim, otherwise known as “the feet,” makes or breaks your macaroon. The other concern is that you don’t want your macaroons to crackle on top. They must be smooth. Appearance is everything, right?

I thank the stars above that with little effort and no fuss, I made a batch of macaroons that came out nearly perfectly. Actually, the 30 small rounds that I piped onto a double-layer baking sheet came out perfectly. The 14 or so rounds that I piped onto my thin pizza pan however, came out with no feet and cracked tops. I attribute this in part to the pan, but more to the fact that after I piped the rounds, I piped more batter on top of the original round because I had run out of space and figured I could just make them bigger. Wrong.
I made Mr. Lebovitz’s chocolate ganache filling (and added pure vanilla extract), sandwiched the macaroon cookies together and then waited the suggested one day before sampling (OK – I ate a few of the cracked cookies once they had cooled – they were crispy and sweet). Nothing like a burst of chocolate almond sugary goodness (that doesn’t stick in your teeth). I impressed myself and then wondered, would I make these again? Once I found these beautiful photos of other macaroons made without food coloring, I got kind of wistful just thinking about re-creating them. Only time will tell.
Always wanted to make macaroons but never found the gumption? Go for it! Then, tell me about it here.
Enjoy!

Carol
Thanks to Ricoeurian for the pastel colored macaroon photo.
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