Ever since I started writing about vanilla, I’ve been asking this question: How can vanilla be used in a savory dish? After all, countless blog recipes feature vanilla as a mainstay in cookies, cakes and other sweet delights. Few, if any, coax vanilla into serving as a flavor foundation for main courses.
Enter Sarah Tomsic and Jan Findlater, proprietors and chefs of the Fly By Diner, an innovative commercial kitchen come gourmet order-and-carry eatery that is parked every Thursday at the entrance to the employee parking lot of New Belgium Brewing Company. I figured, if anyone could take vanilla and do something savory with it, it would be Sarah and Jan!
This dynamic duo met five years ago through Whole Foods Market where Sarah, a former chef at Beauregard’s in Wellington, taught cooking classes that Jan coordinated. Their mutual affection for healthy, flavorful and inspired cooking eventually led them to entertain a partnership resulting in the Fly By Diner, which opened for business in September 2009.
The Fly By Diner represents everything I aim for in my own cooking. Each week, Sarah and Jan create a thematic menu inspired by the season’s freshest ingredients (sourced locally when possible), whole grains, the weather (if it’s going to be freezing out – warm food choices may rule the day), even holidays. Think on this. Most restaurants create a menu that you might eventually learn by heart – because it never changes. Sarah and Jan create a new menu, usually three to four main dishes offered in small and regular portions, plus a baked goodie or other dessert creation, every week.
What spurs such change? “We look at each menu as a balance between vegetarian and non vegetarian options,” Jan – the vegetarian of the duo – explains. “We’ve also been recently looking at menu options for people with dietary restrictions. The vast majority of what we make is from scratch down to our pestos, chutneys, and spreads. Love for great food – and international flavors – is a daily inspiration for us.” Vanilla is no exception.
When I asked her if she could incorporate vanilla into a savory dish, Sarah didn’t bat an eye. “No problem,” she said. “This will be fun.” When I opened Sarah’s email the following week (she sends each week’s menu to Fly By Diner fans), I wasn’t prepared for the level of creativity that my savory vanilla challenge had birthed.
In just a few days I was going to have the pleasure of tasting Chiles en Nogada (which includes real vanilla bean seed) with Walnut Cream Sauce (which includes real vanilla extract). Oh, and just to give a confident nod to the traditional use of vanilla as a baking ingredient, Sarah and Jan decided to offer triple vanilla cupcakes for dessert snacking. Dazzled yet? I was.
As it turns out, Sarah knows her vanilla. “Vanilla is versatile – it can be tropical or seductive or rich,” she told me later that week as I shoveled her triumphant Chiles en Nogada into my toothy, greedy funnel of chewing. “It adds a dimension of depth and completion to a dish – whether savory or sweet. Try making chocolate chip cookies without
vanilla. They still taste good, but you know something is missing. I think consumers tend to take vanilla for granted. It comes in a little bottle and you put a teaspoon in baked goods. But, it can be so much more. A dash of properly made vanilla in a savory meat dish creates a surprising effect.”
Surprised I was. And just so very pleased. Or maybe drugged. While Sarah prepared me a plate of the Chiles en Nogada, I took a healthy bite of the triple vanilla cupcake she placed in my hands for safekeeping, presumably, until the end of my meal. Duh! Dessert first! The butter cream frosting, flavored with vanilla and sprinkled with vanilla infused sugar, had a thickness and appeal to it that when eaten with the cakey portion of the affair made this girl forget that there was any other reason to be standing outside a brewery parking lot on a Thursday afternoon with a daunting to-do list burning a hole in her pocket other than enjoying a triple vanilla cupcake.
Oh, and the Chiles en Nogada? One look at the recipe (see below) and you’ll see why I make it a goal to enjoy culinary treats from the Fly By Diner as often as possible. The combination of the walnut cream sauce with peaches, pears, pork, poblano peppers, cinnamon and vanilla was like licking the inside of Christmas, Easter and autumn treats all at once.
You can find the Fly By Diner at (insert address here) on Thursdays from 11 am to 2 pm. The Diner hopes to travel to other locations in Fort Collins this upcoming summer. Check their website for weekly menus and upcoming events.
Chiles en Nogada with Walnut Cream Sauce
6 pablano chiles, roasted, peeled and seeded
1 lb. ground pork
2 T. oil
2 peaches (we used frozen peaches from Ela Farm)
2 pears (frozen from Ela Farm)
1 onion, diced
2 cl. garlic, minced
2 roma tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 t. cinnamon
1 vanilla bean, split open and scraped
1 t. salt
Pepper to taste
1/2 c. slivered almonds
1/4 c. raisins (optional)
Seeds of 1 pomegranate
1 bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped
Roast, peel and seed pablano chiles and set aside. Saute the pork, peaches, pears, onion, garlic and tomatoes in a skillet until pork is cooked through and vegetables are soft. Add the cinnamon and vanilla bean, salt and pepper. Cool this mixture and add the almonds and raisins. Stuff each pablano with a handful of filling and fold the chile back together. Place on a baking sheet covered with parchment, cover with foil and place in a 350 degree oven until chiles are hot. Drizzle with nogada sauce and top with pomegranate seeds and parsley.
Walnut cream sauce
1/2 c. toasted walnuts
4 oz. Haystack Mountain Chevre
3/4 c. milk
1 t. Rodelle vanilla
pinch salt
Put ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Place in a saucepan and heat gently before drizzling over chiles.
Until the next,
Carol
